Torres Straits

The Great Barrier Reef runs like a tapered ribbon of cays and islands along the northeast coast into the Torres Straits. It is one of the Seven Wonders of the World, extends roughly 14,300 sq mi, was formed a million years ago, is the world’s largest structure made by living organisms, can be seen from a spaceship….well, you just have see it to believe it. Over 2,600 separate reefs and 1500 species of fish make up the reef - just to entice you more. You'll see them, too, if you have a year or two available to explore them all.

We were able to simply dive off our stern to view the magic of this remarkable reef while anchoring in remote islands, often by ourselves. Giant clams (grow to 1.3 m), and a plethora of sea life abounds: colossal groupers, sharks, turtles, rays and a multitude of soft corals in kaleidoscopic colors.

Our nerves had to be slightly calmed, however, before plunging into the waters. Confrontation with the 15 types of venomous snakes, saltwater crocs, stone fish, or 10 types of Irukandji box jellies could be fatal (if not injurious), so we wore protective dive suits, kept our hands and fingers to ourselves, and maintained a sharp lookout. It takes getting used to, as this country is truly wild, but soon we glided above the magical underwater world in ecstasy.

Scud

The Blue Lagoon

Saltwater crocs, known as salties downunder, can weigh 200-400 kg and mature at 16 years. Frequently, 3-4 m crocs are seen on the isolated beaches around the Top End where we cruised, but our dinghy outboard frightened them back into the waters when motoring ashore. We sighted this one at the lighthouse before arriving in Darwin.

Six sharks wandered by along the beach, just as we were considering a saltwater bath. Did I mention we changed our minds?

The inside lagoon of the Coral Sea held hidden dangers of narrow shipping lanes, with busy traffic entering from Asia. Squeezed between the Great Reef and the mainland, container ships have little room to maneuver for sailing vessels, especially at night. It sure made for an interesting dogwatch!

Swift currents up to 4 knots pushed us through the frighteningly narrow passage through the Torres Straits. Days of research and planning were invested to hit the passage in prime conditions. One unfortunate vessel never made it, still in disrepair on the Albany Passage beach. It was a sobering moment, but we relished the views, serenity, and wildness of the Top End. From Cairns to Darwin, we rarely encountered a soul (except a few adventurous cruisers like ourselves), and the Australian Coastal Watch, who were in search of illegal aliens and Thai fishing craft that were unlit at night, dragging 12 miles of nets.

Albany Passage

Anchorage

This island was named after the giant lizards by Mr. Banks, the knowledgeable biologist from the “Endeavor”. We saw them on our hikes; they are kin to the famous Indonesian Komono dragons, which we'll see in Indonesia.

Tracks of the Large Lizard

"I see you, baby!" - Fijian term meaning, I'm watching you!

Pearl Farm

The mothership supplied much needed provisions for the fishing fleet that are far from ports way south. They often remain fishing in the Top End for months at a time.

These guys were anchored behind us. I sure wanted to beg for a watermelon, being out of fresh vegies.

While transiting the Gulf of Carpenteria and Top End, the ACW radioed us frequently to insure all was in order.

It was nice knowing they were there.

New Cruising Buddies

Croc Beach

Bella is meant to scare the pirates in Indonesia. Think she looks pretty tough?

The Northern Territory Marine Rescue Bulletin photo of a croc ambushing a young turtle.

In 1770, Captain James Cook and the “Endeavor” crew, climbed this hill in search of an exit through the reef, after having been grounded further south while fighting swift currents, heavy swells, and high winds. Providence Channel, further north, is named after his final escape to sea.

Aboriginals used the island as a sacred site. Disaster struck one day when a group of Dingaal people attacked Mary Watson, who resided on the island with her baby and two Chinese servants, working the sea slug export trade to Asia with her husband. While he was on expedition, a Chinese worker disappeared while working the garden (his pigtail was later found); the other servant was injured by two spears. Mary took refuge in her tiny house, escaping to sea that night in a boiling pot. After drifting onto another Aboriginal island, they set back out to sea again, eventually becoming stranded on Watson Island (so named after her) where they perished from thirst.