Fiji

Once landfalling from our Western Samoa ocean passage, we anchored on the south coast of Fiji, off a small village where an elder soon motored out to “Scud” in their dug-out canoe with the village children. Like energetic little ants, they swarmed over “Scud”, sending us into peels of laughter. We were delighted with their presence. As they departed, we handed them gifts for the chief and his village. The elder insisted Warren sign “Scud” onto the back of Adam’s old t-shirt, as a gift to the chief's son.

In Suva, the boys accompanied me to the farmers’ market where we were invited to partake in the more casual kava ceremony open to non-locals. Kava is made from the root of the pepper plant, is tranquilizing, but non-alcoholic. It will numb the lips and tongue, and tastes like rotting river water, but it is of utmost importance to finish the half-coconut shell drink of kava, when invited to partake, least embarrass yourself at not having ‘gone native’. I barely finished mine. Adam stood as witness to our bravery, and Warren ended up sick in bed all day.

You’ll never see a more exuberant and vibrant people in all of Oceania. Both Fijians and East Indians (formerly brought over as indentured servants to work the sugar and cotton plantations in mid-1800’s) live in harmony, retaining strong cultural ties to time-honored traditions, making Fiji one of the most interesting islands we visited. The Fijian Groups cover 1.3 million sq. km of ocean with 322 islands, only 100 of which are inhabited. We stopped at Greater Fiji (Viti Levu) on the southern end.

Musket Cove reunited us with our good friends on "Ocelot" with teen Amanda, Jon and Sue (hackingfamily.com). We'd last cruised the Caribbean together in 2003. New friends were made as we all participated together in Regatta events.

The outer reef provided excellent snorkeling. Sue and I often took to the hills to explore the countryside and photographed the island and its warm people. Evenings were spent around the numerous beach-barbecues, grilling chicken and sausages.

Traditional customs bring personal participation in tribal ceremonies, contibuting to the meaning of life and island spirit.

At Robinson Crusoe on the Bituri River, a myriad of Fijian customs were demonstrated, enhancing our appreciation for their culture.

As a tribal custom, the women dance the SEASEA, sometimes flourishing fans. The men dance the MEKE, performed at feasts and special occasions, donned in frangipani leis, sarongs, and leg-dresses of shredded palm fronds. To enact war heroics of the past, faces are blackened with charcoal, while spears, fire batons and machete-like knives are twirled with frightening skill.

Fire walking is believed to have been given to a former warrior by a spirit god, and is an act of thanking him for help with difficult circumstances, like drought or disease.

We watched as stones were first heated by a wood fire til white hot while a tribal member psyched himself in a nearby hut. He emerged, then walked through the pit, standing still in the center. He seemed completely immune to the pain, and had no trace of injury when I later inspected his foot. He seemed to gain psychic power from the ritual, fortifying himself from the heat.

By dinghy we motored up the Bituri River with Jon and Sue on "Ocelot" to visit the villagers. Using a hand drawn map, we navigated through the mangrove forests up narrow channels, until we discovered a dug-out canoe hidden behind massive mangrove roots. The villagers warmly welcomed us, inviting us to join in a kava ceremony. Our account of the ceremony was published by

To understand one's culture, one must become immersed within it. In foreign lands, we attend their churches to hear their voices lift in harmonious song, feeling their communtiy spirit. Often, we are invited into their homes and are served tea, sharing in thoughts and experiences.

Here, the children are dressed in lavalavas for school and church.

My friend, Sue, in the home of the chief and his wife, being served tea on the handcrafted mat. She escorted all of us to church.