Samoa

Western Samoa

American
Samoa

Apia

The Samoan Islands are divided in two groups, with American Samoa comprising the islands to the east, and Western Samoa comprising those to the west. Samoans in the former have wholeheartedly embraced the American way of life, so we chose to visit Western Samoa where ancient tribal customs are still strongly evident, more so than any other island in Polynesia. Western Samoa is the heart of the South Pacific, independent since 1962. Robert Louis Stevenson chose this island to write his poetry; his house still stands as a museum overlooking Apia. Walking along the warren of rain forest trails behind his house, I could feel the source of his stimulation in this verdant, luxuriant island.

Large extended families reside together along the seashore, sharing food and work. Each family resides in their own fale – a round or oval house without walls or furniture, with 8 or more children. Ownership is considered to be communal. Natural dress for the men is the lavalava. Cooking is done in an umu – an earthen oven. Often, attending church on Sundays is mandatory. A strict code of appropriate dress required us to keep our shoulders and knees covered when in public.

Smoke blankets the harbor from umu cooking (earthen ovens) - a tradition on Sunday mornings in preparation for the afternoon feasts.

Apia

A trip around the island to celebrate Kate's birthday ("Carmelita") by visiting the waterfalls with "Ace", and "Safari", provided welcome relief from the heat.

Public Farmers' Market

Pete and I frequently visited the farmers' market, a short walk from "Scud". I relished the contact with the Samoan women, often collecting interesting recipes to use with my new exotic purchases.

Up to 100 islanders stroke the oars of ocean-going canoes for early morning canoe practices. Inter-island competitions are held in May, and practice sessions were often heard around our boat, with much shouting and drum beating to maintain group rhythm.

Note the well-guarded kava bowl. I was asked to leave their male-dominated public arena when I sat down to partake in the ceremony. A very large Samoan ushered me out. I was denied access here in Samoa, but invited by a chief in Fiji to partake of kava in his village.

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