Tuamotus

Les Iles de Tuamotus

French Polynesia

Only twelve family islanders lived ashore. We were delighted to get to know these happy people who welcomed our presence. Once blue skies replaced the previously bruised ones, we piled into their go-fast boats to dive the outer reef. Afterwards, a traditional feast with Polynesian dancing was held as a celebration.

Toau

When asked to teach arerobics to the island women, I started leading yoga classes, instead. More often we ended in laughter during these early morning sessions, with the giggling of the island sisters', Valentine and Liza, imploding. Everyone helped out with island chores.

Black pearls were traded for staples, a welcome relief for the islanders, since it is a long journey by boat to Apataki for stores. The Tahitian island freighter only calls on Toau when scheduled to collect their shipment of fish bound for Papeete. Long months pass during the interim. Valentine and I spent hours together in her home analyzing her lovely gems.

Copra, the dried fruit of the coconut, takes days to collect on nearby motus. It is then husked, scraped from the nut, and set to dry in the hot sun. Export is to Papeete for making into coconut oils and other products.

The Marquesas: Tahitian Dancing

Society Islands : Regatta

Toau

A Dive with the Islanders

Lobster, snails, varo, and scallops

Getting ready

Gaston plucking out varo

Laundry with
Valentine and Warren

Davina teaching traditional Polynesian dance

Yoga at 7am

Warren shredding coconuts

Warren and Davina cooling off

A storm drove us into the Tuamotus, when seeking refuge from the approaching ITCZ (Intercontinental Tropical Convergence Zone) that would bring high winds and nasty squalls. Most sailors avoided this ‘Dangerous Archipelago’, due to rapid currents, hidden sand banks and an abundance of coral heads. Wanting to relish the excellent diving, we charted a course to Toau, lying in the middle of the archipelago.

Trying out the speargun - Peter with Mana and Tahanea (cousins)

Hunting for reef lobsters

Yoga and Island Chores

Adam headed to Apataki for construction supplies

Splitting the nuts for copra

At Play

Adam and Davina

Volleyball was an avid sport in Polynesia. Women played as hard ast he men and were good at it.

The ball in Davina's court

Harvesting Black Pearls

Valentine and Gaston asked for our help in harvesting their black pearls on a motu nearby. It was a two hour run in their home-built island skiff to the site. Peter and I gathered firewood to barbecue the grouper that Adam had speared and a feast was held once the all harvesting was complete.

It's a delicate process to remove the pearl without damaging the fragile oyster. Once it is harvested, another 'seed' is implanted, and removed 1-2 years later, once the new pearl is formed. It's formation is based on weather conditions, water purity, and handling.

Valentine's Pet Grouper

After harvesting the pearls, Valentine fed her pet grouper the young, spongy flesh of the green coconut. When she signaled for him by swirling her hands in the waters, he arrived, ready to be stroked and fed.

Trading Black Pearls

Copra Harvesting

A Sunday Gathering

Valentine led Sunday services, translating in 3 languages: French, Polynesian and
English.

Afterwards, we sat down to an island feast on the beach, outside the church.