Marquesas

Taking advantage of the many bays and harbors, we journeyed around to Daniel's bay for a hike across fields of wildflowers for an afternoon dip in a raging waterfall. "Caremlita", "Safari" and "Ace" joined us with all the kids beating us to the top of the hill. On the beach stood the well-known stage set for the "Survival Reality Show"; we were curious to sit at the famous campfire, wondering what all the hoopla was all about. Living our own real life adventures was about all we could handle.

As we landfalled in these magical islands, we were greeted by the majestic view of mountainous peeks that kissed the shoreline, their long waterfalls dangling like glossy ribbons, enticing our passage-weary souls to hike their arduous trails for a dip in their tranquil pools. Spend two weeks at sea, and the first plan of action when hitting shore is to hike.

Cruising boats in our fleet began to trickle in from their passages on this coconut milk run from Panama. We'd become 'buddies at sea', chatting on the SSB high-frequency radios to update our individual positions, bragging about our latest big catch of the day (colossal wahoos, dorado, tuna and mahi-mahi), and describing enchanting night-sky visions, sunsets, and sea life. The teens organized their own radio net, trading banters, and sharing ideas for craft projects.

Warren decided since tattoos were first started in these islands, he wanted to initiate himself into their culture by finding the best island artist, and succumbing to his talent. With me in tow, we hiked across peaks and valleys to find Akatini who lived in a beach hut. "Look for a man on a horse with a full face tattoo," directed a islander at the local farmers' market.

Setting off early the next morning, we followed muddy hoof prints to navigate our way through the hilly terrain, passing a sign we assumed read, "No trespassing". Soon after, we came upon a farming couple harvesting their crop, and they directed us to Akatini's hut. We found him in the top of a guava tree, munching his lunch. Climbing down, he tossed several guavas to us to join in his meal. Thus began my first genuine acquaintance with a French Polynesian.

Akatini welcomed us into his hut for tea. Inside, vibrant hand-painted murals of dolphins, and of the albatross, stretched across long walls. Nearby, tools of his trade were nicely arranged on a table alongside bone chips, dyes and knives. In front of his beach hut rested his traditional Polynesian catamaran used to navigate around the island. We often saw him stroking the waters at twilight to visit a friend. A boat and a horse is all one needs to get around Nuka Hiva.

Hours drifted by, as Warren sat for his tattoo. Ancient symbols of folklore are contained in the tattoo, telling a tale of long ago and of forgotten memories.

"Come learn the traditional Polynesian dance steps!" Carol on "Fruity Fruits" insisted. Two mornings a week with Carolyne and her daughter Stephanie, we twirled, jumped and snaked our arms through the air, imagining they spoke ancient whispers of love and devotion to our tribal ancestors. Carol from "Safari" joined us with her daughter, Lauren. Our Polynesian dance teacher, winner of several competition awards, was very serious about our performance, often pulling me off the back row into the front line-up to critique my moves. My hopeless dance steps would hardly impress any tribal chief.

Thursday mornings at 4am found us at the farmers' market, selecting baguettes and green produce amongst the colorful array of farmers' displays set in backs of trucks. Long stalks of bananas, stacks of breads and sweet cakes, bunches of vibrant flowers, and rows of fresh tuna adorned the waterfront. To keep the large tunas we'd caught at sea, I marinated the filets in soy sauce, setting them to dry on palm fronds. The end result is much like beef jerky and provided a handy energizing snack.

Sunday mornings were a wonderful opportunity to join in island singing. The enchanting sound of 200 island souls singing Polynesian melodies makes for a rapturous heart, and a gift to hear. Shiny wooden carvings, depicting revered spiritual ancestors and leaders, decorated the walls, and were illuminated under stained glass windows.