New Caledonia

We anchored with Jon and Sue from "Ocelot" (HackingFamily.com) at the beautiful Isle of Pines, famous for the British convicts who were imprisoned here at the fort by Napoleon until released to begin their own farming.

A treasured spot known for its island beauty, many cruisers stop here for a brief respite. The island is off the tourist map, having retained its traditional island ways. Waters are crystal clear, beaches are white and stunning pines standing sentinel along the road provide ample shade for a good ole walkabout.

Mind you, the kids get restless, while the adults are away. Warren talked all the kids into exploring an islet nearby in the anchorage. Instead of talking the path back down, he opted to fly off the cliff into the waters beflow. Yikes...

.

Traditional boats line the beach for purchase

Warren diving off a rock ledge -- the girls refused to go!

Fun in the Sun

Outer Reef Adventures

The pernicious yellow-banded water snake can be deadly without the required anecdote flown in from Australia. One bite from the sea snake can kill a human in thirty minutes. They frequent the warm waters midday and sandy beaches at sunrise and sunset, seeking the warmth of the sand.

Because the fangs are located in the back of the throat, a deadly bite is unlikely, unless you're bitten between the fingers or toes. Surfers laughed at my concerns, saying they're used to them. "No worries, mate. They're shy creatures. Respect them and they'll respect you." It took me more than a few tries.

Sue Hacking on "Ocelot" (HackingFamily.com) and I met for coffee on the beach at Amedee Island early one morning to photograph them. We ended up seeing more than our share. The next morning, Pete and I walked the beach of Amedee Island to find the blue-banded sea snake. We found one coiled beneath the head of the dinghy dock, beautiful in living blue and black color.

October 4, 2005

Road Trip

After a walk through the woods and a hitch-hiking excursion across island, we arrived at the native boat-building site where traditional ocean-going catamarans are still built.

On our way back, we were picked up by an island pick-up truck en route to the market. We joined them, ending up sharing a bucket of ice cream with Jon and Sun on "Ocelot" in the back of the truck, while watching the gorgeous scenary whizz by.

While we were on walkabout to the traditional boat building site for the day, the kids were at play. Here's Warren pulling a fast one. We discovered their mischievious adventures accidentally, when coming across this photo a few weeks later.

Noumea is the windsurfing capital of the world. Strong tradewinds sweep across the wide, protected Baie De L'Orphelinat, creating perfect conditions for windsurfing. While sipping café de latte at a roadside table, we watched the competitors race across the seas.

High winds rip across the tranquil lagoon at Ilot Kutomere, giving Warren excellent kiteboarding sessions.

Great Surf at the Passe de St Vincent

We sighted several yellow-banded sea snakes, but I never got used to them!

Island Trek

Many afternoons were spent hiking into the low hills for picturesque views. Warren is pictured here with Tia and Amanda from "Ocelot". Pete and the boys are on the right.

It is 140 years old and, at 56 meters tall, it is the second highest lighthouse in the world. It was originally built in France by Napoleon III, but was later transported to New Caledonia. It is now a very popular tourist attraction there. It has got approx, 278 steps.

Isle of Pines

A Photograher's Dream at Ndue Island

Summit of Amedee Trail

Our twin hulls at Kanumera Bay

Busy Waters: Peter Snorkeling Above a Large 7' Reef Shark and Turtle

Our Mahi-Mahi Catch of the Day!

En route to the the St Vincent Pass, Adam landed the largest mahi-mahi we've caught on record. Right away we sat down to a delightful lunch of sushi --our favorite way of preparing fresh fish. (This species of fish is often called dolphin – not to be confused with the mammal.)

Diving where no tourists existed was a marvelous experience. Sharks meandered by, uninterested in our presence. The pernicious watersnake continued to unnerve us with its potential venemous and potentially fatal bite, but they were very timid and hid in coral creavices when they encountered us. Waters were so clear, we could see bubbles from turtles swimming by.

Amedee Island

The Kanaks are the largest ethnic group in New Caledonia with a total population of about 63,000; about 43% of the population of 145,000. The French comprise (about 37%); other groups are the Wallis and Futuna Islanders, Tahitians, Indonesians and other Asian settlers. New Caledonia is an Overseas Territory of France and will be the last of the Melanesian island nations to attain independence. As a result the 1980s have seen conflict between the Kanaks who seek independence and the French settlers who wish to retain the status quo.

I followed a Kanak protest into the capital of Noumea. Local residents were upset about irregularities in New Caledonia French Lawa concerning land ownership and the rights of the Kanak People. Unemployment is rife among Kanaks. In 1996, of 18,000 jobs only 5,000 went to Kanaks people. Public sector jobs are open to all citizens but Kanaks tend to be less qualified.

New Caledonia was a good place to experience Oceania with a taste of France. An interesting Melanesian tradition blends with French sophistication, making for a mix of the chic, but casual. We found Noumea to be rather cosmopolitan, which was fun, for a change of pace and scenery. In Chinatown, I relished wandering in and out of the colorful shops. For a taste of Parisian flare and to luxuriate in the cold air condition, I ambled in, then quickly out of the expensive, though elegant, air-conditioned boutiques on the Rue de Sébastopol.

Adam found superb windsurfing conditions in the Baie De L'Orphelinat

Good kiting for Warren at the Ilot Kutomere

The southwest side of New Caledonia is surrounded by reef with open passes. Large waves routinely build, resulting in long barrel rides in the passes. Here at Passe de St Vincent, Warren surfs a nice swell. Australians regularly fly in to surf the large swells.

Clear Waters at the St Vincent Outer Reef

Indigenous Kanaks

Traditional Thatch Home

The Outer Reef is rarely visited and undeveloped. Morning views at low light presented a photographer's dream, as gold gilded curvy sands and cast a lavendar hue across mountain tops.

We relished the tranquility and absence of fishing boats, for the waters are designated as a National Park. Marine treasures of all shapes and sizes lie waiting to be discovered - canyons and caves, exquisite coral, the smallest of tropical fish, turtles, sea snakes and sharks. Dolphin and whale spotting are other delights in store, or simply the luxury of total relaxation on the soft, warm sand of a deserted isle.

Fun in
the Sun

Outer Reef
Adventures

View through the Lens

Noumea

Island
Trek

Road
Trip

Indigenous
Kanaks

Downtown Noumea